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SPECIFICATIONS

What does organic mean?
- All our cotton fabric is made from cotton that has been organically grown and certified by GOTS as being organic cotton.

What does 'Fairtrade'  mean. - On this website  it means that that the cotton has been farmed organically and also a fairtrade premium has been paid to the farmers. The cotton carries the fairtrade mark and has been imported under licence from FTF.

'fair trade' means that we have bought the yarn from Agrocel but it is not imported under licence - we are too small to be able to join GOTS or FTF as the way we work with small weavers and families it is not possble to certify each one. We only use GOTS certified cotton and our whole purpose is to trade fairly with our customers and our weavers. For larger orders we only trade with GOTS certified weavers in India and Turkey

We try and make sure all our cotton is fairly traded by paying over the odds to our weavers and supporting them with a small charity called Loom. We are in business to help promote fair trading, provide work, fulfill our creative needs. We are not in business to exploit others and get rich.

Weaving. The lines are blurred when it comes to weaving. Nearly all our fabrics are made on small powerlooms, they are still called hand looms because they are a one person loom and the process requires frequent manual intervention. Mill fabrics, like cambridge, unfinished fabrics, bamboos, poplins, percale are made in GOTS certified mills and are often made on shuttless automatic machines.

Organic specifications These are a few details. Because we have so many fabrics and fabrics in development Im sorry this is not up to date. We try and include specifications on each product page.

Certificates. Do please ask and we will send certificates on request.

Fabric Name Width Yarn size GSM T.C Fairtrade GOTS certified by
           Fair trade    
Handloom 1.2 40     yes dyes SKAL
powerloom/medium 1.2       yes dyes SKAL
Denim 1.2       yes dyes SKAL
Patterned printed spec varies - 1.2 varies     yes dyes SKAL
               
selvedge twill 1.5           SKAL
selvedge Ox weave 1.4           SKAL
selvedge calico 1.2 20         SKAL
Sateen and poplin 1.4 40   220 yes   SKAL
Percale 112 inches 40   210 yes   SKAL
Muslin 1.5         yes SKAL Soil association
               
Denim weights vary 1.2 2/30 2/40     yes yes SKAL
Crossweave 1.2 2/40 -20(weft) 140   varies yes SKAL
Genesh pat/plain 1.2   177     yes SKAL
voile 1.2 40 40 83     yes SKAL
leno net 1.1 2/10 2/10          
               
cord 1.4       yes   SKAL
velvet 1.4       yes   SKAL
               
jersey 1.4   220       Oeko-tex or GOTS

All fabrics are organic cotton. Fairtrade (one word) means that the cotton used is organic and Fairtrade cotton supplied by Agrocel and imported by a licence holder . Licences cost several thousand pounds. Fair trade (two words) means that the yarn is again supplied by Agrocel (We have copies of all invoices for yarn supplied to our weavers so that we can ensure that organic and fair trade cotton is used) but is not imported under licence from IFAT or Fairtrade foundation (so we cannot use the  ' Fairtrade' (Copywright word)

Dyes used are non azo.

Dyes used on fair trade hand looms are GOTS approved

Fairtrade Hand loom fabric dyes are tested to UK safety standards for textiles used for babies, showing negative prescence of Formaldehyde, resistant to saliva and the release of Arylk amines.You should carry out further tests if you are using the fabric commercially.

Dye fastness is 3/4 ASTM and is usually very good. Be more careful with dark colours.

Light-fastness varies and we would advise keeping fabric out of strong sunlight for sustained periods of time.

Vegetable dyed fabrics have their own standards. Please study these carefully.

We would always advise testing before use as rolls are often individually made and can vary.

Handmade fabrics will vary in shade and will have slubs and imperfections.

Most fabrics are pre-shrunk  some will still shrink.

We are very happy to answer any questions. If in doubt please ask.

PRINTING -This is a statement from Genesh our partner in Kerela
The print dyes are pigment dyes widely using as per the ASTM standards .
Some  use terpentine as mordent.  We mainly depend up on water based printed. The speak easy designs are water based pigment. The method of "george",  the swallows , Dragon etc were using terpentine as mordent which washes away after printing.
I do not know which agency has approved this, but uses this methods for last many decades.